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A Panamanian Marine Preserve With a Past

Granito de Oro is a tiny island that's a good snorkeling spot in Coiba National Park, Panama.

A LOGGERHEAD turtle swiveled its spotted head toward me, then disappeared beneath the waves as I slipped over the side of the boat with my snorkel, mask and fins.

Instantly, a Technicolor underwater world revealed itself: pastel-patched parrotfish, tiny purple-fairy maidens, big-eyed red squirrelfish and a school of purple finned sturgeonfish darting in and out of orange stag coral and purple sea fans.

I followed a slow-moving grouper into deeper water and suddenly, swimming out of the depths, six white-tip sharks emerged, sending me thrashing in the boat’s direction, calling for a lift out.

The New York Times By Elaine Glusac